The elegant and elaborate hairstyles fashionable in Victorian times are famous for their beauty, but few modern women have the time or assistance to recreate the fanciest styles of the era. However, modern women can still recreate the elegance of the era with its simpler styles.
Evening hairstyles during this period could be freer and more elaborate, utilizing hair pieces and flowers and such, but day styles were by and large very simple and controlled. If you have shorter hair, you may want to invest in a good hairpiece or fall, and if you have very short hair, a wig! Bad news for ladies with "fringe" (bangs): Civil War ladies didn't wear it! Although with one evening style you can use "fringe". So get out the gel or smoothing balm and try to make it blend into the rest of your hair, and let's get started
Some quick and simple 1860s hairstyle.
It seems to me that most of the reenacting events we attend start earlier in the day and we usually don't have time to do anything elaborate with our hair until we get ready for the dance. So I have found a couple simple day looks that are quick, but still look period correct. The hairstyles I have found are based on old photographs of the period. You can find period photographs all over the internet. I find these old photos great for studying hair and dress. I have tried to include period photographs with all the instructions I have found.
To do most of the day looks you will need a:
- Brush
- Comb
- Hair-bands (I use the clear hair bands so that they can not be seen in the finished style)
- Bobby-pins
If you tend to have fly-aways, then some gel may come in handy. And when we need this thing to stay still all day, hairspray.
After brushing thoroughly, part your hair in the center. This is the only way woman did it back then, I've never seen it any other way. To get my hair to lay nicely I start parting it in the center a day ahead of time, wetting it down periodically.
Let's start with one of the easiest first.
The Braid and Tuck
Here is a couple period examples for inspiration. This style could easily be worn with a hairnet, like the photo on the left.
This is a nice style for medium length hair, and works especially well if it's thick.
Start by parting the hair down the center, and then braid each side. I had to re-braid each side once because I'd started them to far forward, causing the braids to be too short.
You want to get the rubber band as close to the end and possible, or if the hair is long enough, you can make the ends into a little loop. Also, neutral colored rubber bands blend in nicely.
Next, take the end of one braid, and tuck it under and into the base of the other braid, secure with bobby-pins.
Do the same with the other braid, going underneath the first one. I put most the pins on the underside, using the rubber bands to get a hold of the ends.
Instead of blossoms, a large bow or hairnet also look great. Use your imaginations!
The Bun
Again start by parting the hair down the center
Along the part, starting 3-4 inches back from the hairline of your forehead, section off the front portion of the hair. Straight down to just behind the ear. Do this on both sides and put the rest into a low pony, which will end up being the bun.
Take one front section at a time, and pull them to the back, I usually use a brush to smooth it out, and sometimes a little bit of gel. Twist it a little and then go underneath the ponytail, and wrap it around, twisting as you go. Secure into place with a couple bobby-pins.
Then we split the pony into two braids (or more if the hair is really thick), and coil them into a bun, securing with a few bobby pins. And if it's necessary, a layer of hairspray.
All done! This style can also be dressed up with a bow, bun cover, or by braiding the hair on the side before pulling it to the back.
A variation of the Victorian Bun
Start with your hair down, and parted down the middle.
Section the front of your hair into two pieces, and pin up to keep them out of the way. You won't be using this hair right now.
Section your remaining hair into two, a back section and a middle section. Twist the back section into a bun and pin into place.
French braid the two middle sections of hair, braiding under-over, rather than over-under. This is so that your hair gets the appearance of having two long braids just draped over your head, instead of the common appearance of french braids. Practice and experiment with this if you're not sure what I mean; it's difficult to explain here, but once you get it, you'll slap your forehead and go, "Oh! It's just a backwards french braid!" Once the two braids are done, put a bobby pin or small rubberband on the ends to hold them. No big bands; you don't want anything modern showing once the style is finished!
Now, you get to unpin the front sections! Take them down and then bring them to the back, loosely, so that they cover your ears and sweep smoothly over your head. This is when bangs can be annoying; hairspray, gel, whatever works, get those suckers to lay smoothly with the rest of your hair, hidden! Pin the sections in place, hiding the pins in the bun. If your hair is very long, you can wrap them around the bun and then pin in place.
Finally, take the braids and sweep them to the back as well, once again pinning them into place over the bun, trying to hide the pins as much as possible. You're finished!
There is another option for those ladies who don't want to take the trouble to braid and coil their hair, or have short hair and don't care to spend the money for a hair piece: the day cap! Most women during this period over the age of twenty-one or so covered their hair during the day in some kind of cap, which can be very convenient if you're all thumbs in the hair department;)
Victorian 3-Braid
The Victorian 3-braid is one of my favorites: easy to recreate, it is a lovely updo, perfect for weddings or proms, but can be dressed down for everyday use as well.
This style looks best with fairly long, thick, straight hair. I have found a similar style that works well for shorter hair that is in the next section.
Instructions
If you already know how to do a flip-through, skip to step 4. Otherwise, continue reading. Experienced hair dressers will be able to create this style on themselves, others may need to practice on a friend first.
Put your subject's hair up into a basic pony tail.
Loosen the ponytail slightly and use your fingers to part the hair just above and below the band.
Carefully reach through the part and grab the pony tail. Pull it gently up through the part to create a flip-through.
Divide the ponytail into three sections. Get your friend to hold two of them.
Divide the remaining section into three and braid it. Repeat with the other two.
Loop the braids and tuck the ends into the flip-through. Secure with pins.
You can also experiment with variations, including single braid and 5-braid versions.
For a similar style that works well for shorter hair try the "Gibson Tuck."
Gibson Tuck Instructions
If you have shorter, curlier hair, don't despair. There is a similar style popularly called the "Gibson Tuck" that you can try instead.
Put your subject's hair up into a basic ponytail.
Loosen the ponytail slightly and use your fingers to create a part just above the band.
Flip the band down into the "pocket" this creates, and push the ponytail in after it, as evenly as possible. Unlike the Victorian 3-braid, do NOT pull the hair through. Secure with pins.
This is a pretty yet practical updo that is very fast to make. The sample in the photo to the right took me under a minute from start to finish, though it would benefit from a neater part.
For a dressier look, you can secure the tuck with decorative hairsticks or combs, incorporate flowers or ribbons, curl any stray strands, or similar techniques.
Victorian Evening Style
The high Victorian period was all about excess: bustles were big, ruffles were everywhere, patterns warred on walls and couches and dresses. There was definitely a belief that more was better; if you've ever seen photographs of high Victorian interiors, they are crammed with ornate furniture, chotchkes, and everything that would stand still is decorated.
It should be no surprise then that Victorian women of this period felt the same way about their hair, especially when affecting formal, evening styles. This is the period where a woman might have three of four different hair pieces woven into her real hair (which was often more than 24" long itself). Pins, sticks, and flowers were added into loops and braids and curls, until a lady could conceivably have severalpounds of hairstyle on her head.
This is not an easy style; this is pretty advanced. Be warned up front!
Yep; this is one of those styles you'll need a fall for. Unless you have ridiculously thick, long hair, you just can't get the look we're going for without at least a 3/4 wig. This is a wig that has two combs, at the center front and center back, to secure the piece in place but still reveal your own hair in the front. Mine is fairly long and has loose curls, which are invaluable when doing this period style. Remember that you can't curl a straight synthetic wig very easily if at all (keep that curling iron away unless you like the smell of burning plastic!), so start with a curly one, and you should be fine;)
As for your own hair, as you can see, I set mine on small to medium rollers overnight to make it pretty curly. It isn't really necessary for you to do anything to the back of your hair; you're only going to see the front. However, since I had to wear my own hair to work yesterday, I wisely decided to curl my whole head;) The curls should be fairly tight and rather small; if you have bangs, ladies, this is the time to flaunt them! Fringe, as the Victorians called it, was definitely in, with waves or tight curls in front being very popular. You almost never saw a lady without some kind of wave or curl in her hair, especially for evening.
Here comes the advanced part of today's tutorial.
To get the high curls and loops seen so often in period photographs, you will need:
-at least 10 large bobby pins
-at least 10 small (or regular) bobby pins
-some time
-a lot of patience
A wig does not behave like your own hair. You must be gentle and take your time; never brush it forcefully or pull it too tightly. Remember that the tighter you try to pull a wig against it's natural grain (ie: up instead of down), the more it will fight you and show bald spots and stitching lines. Slow and steady wins the race here.
Start by taking some of the longest hair on one side of the wig and make a medium-sized braid, wrapping the braid around the front edge of the wig to hide the seam where it will join to your hair. Pin the braid in place and hide the bobby pins as best you can, securing them into the lace cap of the wig for the best stability wherever possible. Then, go to work on the rest. Working methodically and starting in the center front (which is best for acheiving a symmetrical style), take sections of hair and loop them into large curls, pinning them into place. You may have to unpin and redo sections when trying to find balance; that's okay! Remember, I said you needed patience for this one! Keep looping and pinning until you have secured most of the hair, concentrating the most height and volume at the top, and tapering it down. I have left several long trailing curls in the back, which is appropriate for a younger woman, but more mature ladies might want to pin all the hair up into a more controlled style.
Now, prepare your own hair for the wig. As the wig is now pretty top/front heavy, I have pinned a braid in place at the top of my head to provide it with a place to secure the comb into. The rest is pinned back; you can twist it into a french twist or a high, tight bun. Leave a few curls out in front; this is when to showcase your fringe, if you have it!
Finally, you're ready to put the wig on! Take your looped
and pinned monster off the styrofoam head and carefully place it on yours, sliding the comb securely into the braid in front, and pulling the bottom comb into place as close to the nape of your neck as you can get it. The wig may need some adjusting at this point; it will always look slightly different sitting on your head than it does on the mannequin (I don't know too many people with heads shaped just like those styrofoam dummies). Adjust, fluff, and spray everything into place, et voila! You're done! If you have jeweled combs or hair sticks, place them in your hair now, and break out that bustled ball gown; you're ready for the biggest event of the Season!
